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February 28, 2010

Moulin Touchais, Loire, France

Moulin Touchais 1995
Côteaux du Layon AC, Anjou, Loire, France
Vignobles Touchais
209 sek

Golden color. Intense nose with aromas of almondpaste, honey and some hints of pineapple. Sweet, intense, developed taste of almondpaste, honey and dried apricots. Good acidity making the whole experience a fresh one, with a long finish. Medium-full bodied. Nice balance. 13,5 % abv. Chenin Blanc.

This wine has 85 g/l of sugar. The grapes were harvested in several turns, the first ones (ca 20%) not too long after flowering, before ripeness, to keep the extra part of acidity. The rest were taken in very late, when extra-ripen, but without being affected by the Botrytis rot. This is something that makes the Moulin Touchais wines so special, as this high sugar content normally does go with nobel rot for other sweet wines, even within this region.

However, the winery seems special for many other reasons too. First, I cannot seem to find any website. All information I am collecting is from importers in Sweden, UK and America and a fan page on facebook.
And from a Swedish book I got from my mother-in-law for Christmas: Smakens Magi (The magic of taste), Bengt-Göran Kronstam, one of the 'big' guys here in Sweden. He writes about the winery being the least 'market-trimmed' (which could explain i.e. why I cannot even find a webpage). More of a down-to-earth-(industrial maybe)-production site than some romantic hidden winery. But what is hidden under the ground is what makes this place so special: Unbelievable many bottles of wine, dating back as far as to middle of 1800! He was even offered a glass of a wine from 1887, he writes. In 1979 almost 3 mill ! bottles were found in the cellars that had previously been closed because of us - the Germans...

No bottle leaves the winery under 10 years of ageing and they claim that their wines last 100 years. Browsing the internet I have found many notes of wines from 1940s and -50s. So, my bottle from 1995, wasn't really anything special - in that regard.

But to me it was. Ever since I tried it at the wine-cheese tasting some weeks ago. I had to go and buy it and felt that my father-in-law's 90th birthday was a great reason for that. But, I will now go back and buy a few more to put on storage!
The aromas of this wine are so nice, so nice, so sweet and gentle, like a lullaby... It will go with some good aged blue cheese, but I will want to drink it just as it is. Maybe some Biscotti, not more than that.
Vignobles Touchais seem to be located here. In the area of Anjou, the heartland of the Loire valley. The 1400 ha AC Côteaux du Layon stands for sweet wines of Chenin Blanc (also called Pinneau de Loire). This grape variety is famous for the Loire, giving extremly fresh wines of different stages. (Beloved Riesling, you are not alone!)
Funny enough though, it was in South Africa, where we discovered this grape for the first time... But, sooner or later we'll get to visit the Val de Loire!


  1. Nice posting. Did you see my posting on tannin with the reference to your posting?