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November 01, 2010

2009 GG Tasting Reichsrat von Buhl

Reichsrat von Buhl offers 7 GG wines, 5 of which we got to taste during our visit to the estate. The tasting was to show and give an understanding of how the different terroirs of each wine will/can be detected. And it was clearly a good lesson! 
Forst with Ungeheuer, Kirchenstück, Jesuitengarten
All 5 wines were dry wines, as the GG label indicates. They all had under 4 g/l residual sugar, which was a new experience for me, as most of 'my' German wines tasted before had 6 and 7 g/l. I totally liked the taste of this 'new dryness'!

All wines were Rieslings and had the grape's significant high acidity which I - of course! - like so much too.

All wines had nice, nice mineral tones. Many German wines can seem fruity 'only' - none of these would match that description.

All wines were complex, had a lot to give both in nose and on palate. They were like stories, opening up more and more and telling more the longer in the glass. That duration though, was of course limited, as part of a tasting, so there is need to try again at home with more time!

All wines had 13 + abv. That is the part where I am having my own little problems. It seems, I am quite sensitive to 'too much abv' - whatever that means, as it is a rather subjective matter. Of course, it is logical: you want a dry wine, meaning, most sugar should be fermented to alcohol. You want ripen grapes, so you have considerable sugar levels. So either you need to have some sweetness, or you need to have alcohol... However, I will store some wine and see how it developes within the next years. Maybe it was also just a bit too early to try such great wines from only one year ago?

All wines are expensive. This said as a non-collector, just a wine lover. Needless to say, price has to be put in perspective. As all these wines will develop further under years/decades to come, it can be fun and interesting to follow just that. Even if you are not a collector or connaisseur. Open a bottle once in a few years. Remember the day you bought it, perhaps other meaningful things of your life worth remembering, connected to that date. Maybe a graduation, a child birth or the first kiss from the significant other. Of course, this is to most people not a wine for daily use. Although: carpe diem - maybe it should be! But that is for everyone to decide.

Here comes the list of wines, sorted by 'Heike liked best':

1. 2009 Kirchenstück Forst, Riesling GG, 0,7 l, 49 €
Served as the last wine of the flight, my notes were very short. I was too busy smiling with the wine in my glass. By such means, it was a good wine: it made me feel good, made me smile.  It was very complex, with a distinct smoky minerality and earthyness, herbal and ripen, yellow fruit. Rather full-bodied, but still very elegant. Mouth-watering. I want more, now as I am writing about it....

That I liked that wine most, seems not to speak for my individual taste, though... This vineyard Kirchenstück is world famous and that since many, many years. In 1828 (note: Bordeaux classification wasn't happening until 1855...) this site was already granted absolute top-status. Rieslings from here were called 'Royal Riesling'. Surrounded by a sandstone wall, this site gains extra warmth.

2. 2009 Ungeheuer Forst, Riesling GG, 0,7 l, 29 €
Very aromatic. Citrus and ripe peach, herbal. Some minerality. Rich and rather full-bodied. Can take it up with food that does not lack spices. A wine that has a lot of a lot. Complex, distinct, elegant.

3. 2009 Pechstein Forst, Riesling GG, 0,7 l, 29 €
Want to bite into a nice rock? Basically not, I assume. But why does a wine that brings that association taste so darn good? Does it make it more interesting? I don't care why.... I just like it. Perhaps it is the nice teenager-memories of biking on wet asphalt on warm summer evenings, where the rain was evaporating on the warm ground? Those times, where you knew you knew it all, your self-esteem was higher than ever again? The aromas of this wine brings it all back to you - and some more! Exotic fruit, citrus, grapefruit, saltyness.

4. 2009 Jesuitengarten Forst, Riesling GG, 0,7 l, 29 €
Exotic, herbal, mineral. Somehow, it did not really open up to me, I need to re-taste this one to be able to say more...

5. 2009 Reiterpfad Ruppertsberg, Riesling GG, 0,7 l, 29 €, Almost towards a creamy consistence. Again, ripen yellow fruit and minerality, herbs and a bit vegetal. It did not give me the 'wow' effect, for which I would want to pay that price. Sorry...

I enjoyed the tasting very much, but need to mention too, that it was not held for a group of professional wine tasters, but rather for a random mixed group of visitors. Not everyone was 'in to wine', so it was hard to concentrate on the wines at times... However, Monika Schmid did a great job of introducing the wines and sites to us!

In a separate post, let's look at the vineyards and their special characteristics...

1 comment:

  1. Thanks a lot for sharing this, Heike. I sometimes wonder whether GG wines should not be allowed to have a little more residual sugar - this would keep the abv down a little and may, on some cases, give them a better balance. After all, they should all have enough mineral, acidity plus character and substance to be able to take on a few grams more. Either way, I am sorry to have missed the fun!
    Torsten /