Riesling 10 years on
I am cheating and taking this wine tasting as the Riesling of the month, because I really liked them all and it would be very difficult to name only one as this month's wine...
One of my nicest wine tastings so far! Very nice ambience with a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere spread by Tom Benns, wine consultant at the prestigeous estate Dr. Bürklin-Wolf. And the wines! 3 Premiers Crus, 4 Grands Crus, and a (Muskateller) Beerenauslese - all from 2001. 10 years on. The theme of the evening.
BW has since 1994 established their own appellation system, by distinguishing their wines by their sites. Very best are the Grands Crus, followed by the Premier Crus - just like in France. However! The classification is really old and dates back to 1828. Long before Germany started the mustweight-qualification m(adn)ess.
Ok. As you figured before, I am not falling for 'big names', 'gurus', 'grand crus' etc... Rather, I am out there to explore the wine world and to see what _I_ like. So, to start this text by mentioning the 'Crus' could be misleading... It is not about their status. But about their taste. (Which of course most propably explains the status... :) ).
2001 - seperating the men from the boys. That's how some winemakers would discribe the vintage. The year before, 2000, was one of the worst of the area. Too much rain, taking it's toll. For Bürklin-Wolf that meant 180.000 liters compared to normally 400.000. No G.C., no P.C. that year. Instead all remaining grapes from top sites were used for the basic estate wines (Gutswein). So, in 2001, when rain set in in late summer, many vintners harvested their grapes earlier than planned, in order to get some quantities - even if for the price of lower quality. BW though needed G.C. and P.C. wines this year, so they decided to wait anyway. Gambling. They were lucky! After the shorter rain period came a golden October and the grapes could develop at a slow pace, hence collecting lots of flavours.
|Tom Benns, Wine Consultant Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, and me at the |
Gault Millau sign Best Collection 2010
- have wonderful developed, ripe aromas,
- felt very fresh and clean, with a still high acidity,
- have a higher residual sugar content than you can taste,
- have nice minerality,
- have a long finish, dominated by grapefruit flavours.
The difference lies in between: some
- are fuller bodied, some leaner,
- some are almost of oily consistence
- some have smoky tones,
- some more herbal.
Reflecting their originality - the terroir. Very exciting to experience it so distinctly!
|Tom opening the wines for us|
2001 Wachenheimer Goldbächel P.C. € 19.50 (the welcome wine)
Very ripe, sungolden fruit, apricot, petrol, towards oily, light-medium bodied.Goldbächel: 4,3 ha total vineyard, BW owns 3. Sloping south. Red and yellow sandstone.
2001 Wachenheimer Altenburg P.C. 19.50lean, young, floral, nutty, fresh, light-boded
Vineyard: 1,22 ha total, BW 0,4. Sloping east, shady afternoons. 130-150 above NN. White sandstone.
2001 Wachenheimer Böhlig P.C. 19.50
medium-bodied, creamy, ripe yellow fruit
Vineyard: 4 ha. Sloping south. Yellow and red sandstone gravel, upper part of site limestone.
|right: Altenburg P.C., left: Böhlig P.C., middle behind: Goldbächel P.C.|
my favorite of the day! Very lean and elegant, with distinct flint stone
Sloping east. Vulkanous basalt. 2nd best vineyard of the Pfalz (classification 1828).
Tom's reparation wine, or, as he calls it: method in my madness.
2009 (!) Riesling Hohenmorgen P.C.
too young to mention in this context ;)
I now understand much better, why these wines need to be put on shelves for some years to really get most out of your payment. And why Riesling is not just Riesling.
|A happy tasting group|
|Nice gift to the wine lover? The G.C. Box|
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf is one of the 3 B's, the Pfalz estates that have since long been known around the wine world. I will get back to this in a separate post, leaving this one with the wine tasting for now.
Day at von Buhl: http://vinumdiligo.blogspot.com/2010/11/2009-gg-tasting-reichsrat-von-buhl.html